Friday 30 November 2012

Sunburn

What is sunburn?
Sunburn is inflammation of  the skin caused by exposure to the suns ultraviolet rays. The skin turns red, hot and is painful and if seriously affected can blister. Fair skinned individuals are more susceptible.
What are the risks?
Frequent  exposure to sunlight breaks down the elastic tissues in the skin and causes wrinkles and premature ageing. it can also cause the appearance of solar keratoses (roughened, red patches of skin) on exposed places, especially in fair-skinned people. Long-term exposure to strong sun increases the risk of skin cancer which is becoming common in this country and can maim or kill.
 Effects of the sun on skin
The suns Ultraviolet rays penetrate the skin and  stimulate specialized  cells to produce more melanin, a protective skin pigment. Melanin in the epidermis causes the skin to look darker, resulting in a suntan. This is often seen as a positive health indicator but in fact the opposite is the case. A sun tan is actually physical evidence of sun damage.  Even more seriously the UV rays cause the capillaries under the epidermis to dilate, allowing more blood to flow near the surface and causing the skin to look red. Damage then occurs to the outer layer of the skin.
People from cold climates trying  to get a quick suntan in a short timescale  are especially at risk. Other people are at risk because their body chemistry is compromised by medicinal treatments or sometimes natural changes such as pregnancy.
Prevention ?
 Use  a sunscreen and limit sunbathing particularly between 11 and 3.
It is important to use an over-the-counter sunscreen to protect your skin from becoming sunburnt. Choose a lotion with a sun-protection factor (SPF) rating of 15 to 25.
 Sunburn.
I recommend a cooling application of Aloe vera blended with lavender essential oil followed at bedtime and in the morning by intensive moisturizing  using  evening primrose oil or almond oil containing frankincense and Neroli essential oils which will assist with the healing.  Increase the intake of water and avoid thre dehydrating effects of alcohol and caffeine until the pain has subsided Do not sunbathe until the redness and tenderness have disappeared.
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Natural perfume blending

This is a useful classification of the emotions invoked by EOs like Jasmine, Mandarin, Pepper and Vanilla used by researchers.
‘‘Happiness – Well-being – Pleasantly surprised” for the ‘‘Pleasant
feeling” dimension.
_ ‘‘Romantic – Desire – In love” for the ‘‘Sensuality” dimension.
_ ‘‘Relaxed – Serene – Reassured” for the ‘‘Relaxation” dimension.
_ ‘‘Nostalgic – Amusement – Mouthwatering” for the ‘‘Sensory
pleasure” dimension.
_ ‘‘Energetic – Invigorated – Clean” for the ‘‘Refreshment”
dimension.

 Why Blend?  Some essential oils are straightforwardly pleasant like grapefruit or fragonia.  Others need to be blended to create a pleasant effect.  A common mistake is to overdo the citrus top notes like bergamot without balancing them to create a harmonious unified scent for example by incuding ylang. With this done you can experiment with modifiers perhaps adding a warming note like ginger.  Relative volatilities vary widely and it is disappointing for the top notes to arrive and disappear and not particularly pleasant.  The more volatile top notes last longer with a suitable base note fixative like frankincense, myrhh or benzoin.

Carles

Education and articles 

Mandy Aftel

Fixation

Dont underestimate myrhh as a fixative in your natural perfume and diffuser blends.




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Skincare Manual 2012-13

Sp Skincare 2013 manual and product details

Sp Safety leaflet

Sp Skincare Therapists 2013 orderform and pricelist - please apply

SpSkincare Distributors Product List and 
Weight Calculator Orderform 2013

Aromatherapists Aromatherapy Trade pricelist and 2012 orderform

Retail Aromatherapy pricelist and 2012 orderform

Meditation

Deepak Chopra

Information on aromatherapy

Information on carrier oils 

Information on essential oils 

Information on hydrosols

Aromatherapy topics

Aromatherapy recipes

 Perfumery ideas

Skincare ideas



AromaWeb
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Thursday 29 November 2012

Home/Workplace/College kits



Retailers / Colleges:-
Please contact us for volume discounts on our range of kits and boxes

1.        Home/Workplace Sensory kit Starter
essential oils, Base notes-  top notes – ideal for dropping onto candles
5ml Citronella
5ml Grapefruit
5ml Lemon
5ml Mandarin
5ml Peppermint
5ml Rose Geranium
5ml Vanilla
5ml Ylang Ylang

Citrus and Ylang oils combine well
Safe and pleasurable - the kit can be ordered with a convenient plastic vanity case

2.        Home/Workplace Sensory kit Starter Plus
essential oils, Base notes-  top notes – ideal for dropping onto candles
3ml Benzoin
5ml Clary Sage
5ml Eucalyptus
5ml Frankincense
3ml Geranium
5ml Grapefruit
3ml Jasmine
5ml Lemon
5ml Mandarin
5ml Myrhh
5ml Peppermint
3ml Rose Absolute
5ml Vanilla
5ml Ylang Ylang

Your pack comes complete with safety and usage information. All oils come in glass bottles and are presented in a practical clear storage container.
Safe and pleasurable - the kit can be ordered with a convenient plastic vanity case

2.  Home care for essential oil pack starter
2ml Melissa
5ml Bergamot FCF
5ml Rosemary
5ml Geranium
5ml Black pepper
5ml Clove Bud
5ml Ginger
5ml Marjoram
5ml Basil
5ml Rosemary
5ml Eucalyptus Globulus
5ml Tea tree
5ml Lavender Organic

Your essential oil pack comes complete with safety and usage information. All oils come in glass bottles and are presented in a practical clear storage container.
3.     College kit essentials £5
Turn your essential oil kit into a college kit with our college kit essentials

This Kit contains  2 Carrier Oils and also includes 2 x 30ml measuring cups, 6 x pipettes, cap labels and 50 x odour testing strips.
Carrier Oils:-

Grapeseed 125ml
Sweet Almond 125ml

Retailers / Colleges:-
Please contact us for volume discounts on our range of kits and boxes

4.      VTCT Level II College kit  - essential oils and college kit essentials £35
Ideal for use around the home but also makes a lovely gift for someone who is interested in learning more about Aromatherapy and Essential Oils. The kit comes with a useful information leaflet which details basic usage and safety advice.

This Kit includes  8 VTCT essential oils, 4 carrier oils and also includes 2 x 30ml measuring cups, 6 x pipettes, cap labels and 50 x odour testing strips.

VTCT essential oil kit

3ml Chamomile Roman
10ml Geranium
10ml Jasmine 5% in jojoba
10ml Frankincense
10ml Lavender France
10ml Rose Otto 5% in jojoba
10ml Tea tree
10 ml Ylang Ylang

Your pack comes complete with safety and usage information. All oils come in glass bottles and are presented in a practical clear storage container.

Carrier Oils:-

Grapeseed 125ml
Sweet Almond 125ml
Wheatgerm 50ml
Apricot kernel 50ml

The kit is available with or without a vanity plastic or wooden carrying case





5.        Home care for pack professional - 2
3ml Melissa
10ml Bergamot FCF
10ml Rosemary
10ml Geranium
10ml Black pepper
10ml Clove Bud
10ml Ginger
10ml Marjoram
10ml Basil
10ml Rosemary
10ml Eucalyptus Globulus
10ml Tea tree
10ml Lavender Organic

Your pack comes complete with safety and usage information. All oils come in glass bottles and are presented in a practical clear storage container.
6.        Ready blended care for synergies for home , college and professional use
Cellulite
Clear head
Easy breathe
Fatigue
Joints
Muscles
Rest
Stress
Stretchmarks
Women
Noel Oil

 Your pack comes complete with safety and usage information. All oils come in glass bottles and are presented in a practical clear storage container.

Home/workplace Sensory kit two
More Base notes-  top notes – ideal for dropping onto candles
5ml Bergamot
5ml Frankincense
5ml Lime
5ml Myrhh
5ml Petitgrain
5ml Palmarosa
5ml Patchouli
3ml Vetiver
3ml Cistus

Your pack comes complete with safety and usage information. All oils come in glass bottles and are presented in a practical clear storage container.

2b More Base notes-  top notes – ideal for dropping onto candles or diffusing
Woody notes

5ml Cedarwood
5ml Cypress
5ml Juniperberry
5ml Juniper
5ml Pine
5ml Fir

2c Luxury dilutions kit

5ml Jasmine 5% in jojoba
5ml Helichrysum 5% in jojoba
5ml Neroli 5% in jojoba
5ml  Rose Absolute 5% in jojoba
5ml Sandalwood 5% in jojoba

2d Ultimate luxury kit

3ml Rose otto
3ml Rose absolute
3ml Jasmine Absolute
3ml Neroli
3ml Helichrysum
3ml Sandalwood

2e Ultimate luxury kit


3.  Eucalyptus and Lavender exploration kit

5ml Lavandin Super
5ml Lavender France
5ml Lavender France Organic
5ml Lavender Bulgaria
5ml Lavender Italy
5ml Lavender spike
5ml Eucalyptus globulus
5ml Eucalyptus citriodora
5ml Eucalyptus radiata
5ml Eucalyptus smithii
5ml  Eucalyptus dives


4.  Students/Professional tutors kit
All oils not in the above

4a
3ml Angelica root
3ml  Angelic a seed
10ml Aniseed
10ml  Bay
10ml Camphor
3ml Chamomile German
10ml caraway
10ml cinnamon
10ml Coriander
10ml Cinnamon
10ml Cinnamon Bark

4b

10ml  Dill
10ml  Elemi
3ml Fragonia
3ml  Hyssop
3ml  Inula
10ml  Ho Wood
10ml  Fennel
10ml  Chamomile Moroccan
10ml  Carrotseed
10ml  Cajuput
10ml Fir Siberian

4e

10ml Lemon tea tree
10ml  Lemon verbena
10ml Lovage
10ml Orange Bitter
10ml Manuka
10ml  May chang
10ml  Myrhh
10ml  Myrtle red
10ml  Niaouli
10ml  Nutmeg

4f

10ml  Origanum
10ml  Rosemary verbenone
10ml  Sage
10ml  Spikenard
10ml Spruce Black
10ml Star anise
10ml  Tagetes
10ml  Tarragon
10ml  Thyme Red
3ml  Yarrow


Base notes top notes – ideal for dropping onto candles
10ml Bergamot
10ml Citronella
10ml Lime
10ml Petitgrain
10ml Palmarosa
10ml Patchouli
3ml Vetiver
3ml Cistus

Home carer kit pack
2ml Melissa
5ml Rosemary
5ml Geranium
5ml Black pepper
5ml Clove Bud
5ml Ginger
5ml Marjoram
5ml Basil
5ml Rosemary

Woody

5ml Cedarwood
5ml Cypress
5ml Fir
5ml Juniperberry
5ml Juniper
5ml Pine

Home care for and anti viral kit

5ml Lemon
5ml Eucalyptus
5ml Geranium
5ml Lemongrass
5ml Thyme
5ml Ravensara
5ml savory

Ylang exploration kit
5ml Ylang 1
5ml  Ylang 2
5ml  Ylang 3
5ml  Ylang Complete
5ml  Ylang extra

Organic Home cooking essences kit – essences 5% diluted in almond oil
Organic list home supermarket

Organic catering essences kit




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Wednesday 28 November 2012

The oil of truth?

Melissa (NAHA)
Why do placebos get results, sometimes dramatically reducing the amount of medication required to get the same effect?  Is it the psychosocial relationship with the therapist?  Why should that come as a suprise?  Is over reliance on prescription medicines causing a quiet epidemic of diminished wellbeing?

Look inside
Its an integral part of any medicine that the patient should feel better.  The maintainance of positive mood states need not be left to chance.  It is possible to look at a framework of generally agreed human values.

I came into the world, to testify to the truth. Everyone who belongs to the truth listens to my voice.' Pilate asked him, 'What is truth?'

 John 18.33,36-38

why not add a quote from your culture?
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The oil of compassion, healing?

Clary Sage (NAHA)
More on compassion

Jesus went about all the cities and villages, teaching in their synagogues, and proclaiming the good news of the kingdom, and curing every disease and every sickness.When he saw the crowds, he had compassion for them, because they were harassed and helpless, like sheep without a shepherd.

 Matthew 9.35-end

why not add a quote from your culture?

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The oil of gladness?

Gardenia (NAHA)
What is your favourite oil, the one you find makes you feel glad?  Is it a combination of oils or a perfume in itself like Gardenia, an oil of gladness and gratitude.

to give them a garland instead of ashes, the oil of gladness instead of mourning,

Isaiah 61.1-3a

why not add a quote from your culture?
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An oil of joy for mourning

Geranium (NAHA)
An oil of joy for mourning

Joy in a life well led

Grief in the loss of physical attachment
to one we love

Rose
Neroli
Geranium
Frankincense


nation shall not lift up sword against nation, neither shall they learn war any more; but they shall all sit under their own vines and under their own fig trees, and no one shall make them afraid.

 Micah 4.1-4a

why not add a quote from your culture?
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Tuesday 27 November 2012

In conversation - Essential oils - not unpleasant?= pleasant?

  • Ylang Ylang (NAHA)


    Ian Brealey This is a useful classification of the emotions invoked by EOs like Jasmine, Mandarin, Pepper and Vanilla used by researchers.
    ‘‘Happiness – Well-being – Pleasantly surprised” for the ‘‘Pleasant
    feeling” dimension.
    _ ‘‘Romantic – Desire – In love” for the ‘‘Sensuality” dimension.
    _ ‘‘Relaxed – Serene – Reassured” for the ‘‘Relaxation” dimension.
    _ ‘‘Nostalgic – Amusement – Mouthwatering” for the ‘‘Sensory
    pleasure” dimension.
    _ ‘‘Energetic – Invigorated – Clean” for the ‘‘Refreshment”
    dimension.
  • Ian Brealey if we could smell most pharmaceuticals I guess we'd run a mile!
  • Wendy Norman I REALLY dislike the smell of Wintergreen. It smells like death to me. Someone told me it's because of the formaldehyde component. Do you have any comment please Ian?
  • Robert Tisserand What about the sulfur compounds in garlic oil, onion oil and leek oil? Or the thiocyanates in mustard oil, horseradish oil and cabbage oil - these contain sulfur and nitrogen.
  • Ian Brealey We really hate filling garlic capsules in the lab I guess that could be why!! So I guess they qualify as unpleasant. They must sneak below the 400 molecular weight barrier too.
  • Ian Brealey Wintergreen is another to add to the list. it is a rather medicinal smell. could be a learned adverse response maybe going to the dentist when you are a kid. or it could be a wise adverse response as wintergreen (methyl salicylate) is not high on everyones list. Im sad they seem to have taken it out of Olbus oil as an oil and replaced it with presumably synthetic. Cajuput Oil,Clove Oil,Eucalyptus Oil ,Juniperberry Oil,Levomenthol ,Methyl Salicylate ,Mint Oil - Cajuput Oil BPC 18.50%, Clove Oil EP 0.10%, Eucalyptus Oil EP 35.45%, Juniperberry Oil BPC 2.70%, Levomenthol EP 4.10%, Methyl Salicylate 3.7%, Mint Oil, partly dementholized 35.45%
  • Ian Brealey Furanocoumarins in the 'news' they get through too and are pretty unpleasant in effect, impressive pics in the name of science here http://www.life.illinois.edu/berenbaum/newpage1.htm

    furanocoumarins
    www.life.illinois.edu
    The furanocoumarins found in wild parsnip are shown at left and play a dominant ...See More
  • Ian Brealey Methyl salicylate is another anti herbivore defence so it could be an evolutionary memory for us Wendy!
  • Ian Brealey We had an appalling rotting cabbage smell when cabbage was served for lunch at school (we were on a 5 veg regime). Must have been the thiocyanates degrading. Just think we had chemistry right there and didnt realise it!
  • Robert Tisserand My point is, essential oils can smell pretty bad too, so let's not pretend they are all wonderful flowery creations! And, I think pleasant/unpleasant are not as clear cut as we might think. Some people just don't like rose...or jasmine....or geranium....in any dilution.
  • Ian Brealey We agree! I too am making the observation that their aromas are not positively unpleasant. the descriptions on the essential oils Ive listed were developed by the aromatherapy trades council and have weathered the storm of 35 years of trading standards so thats good evidence. I think where researchers are missing the point is that memories in the amygdala are associated with unpleasant smells/experiences.
  • Ian Brealey so if researchers for example associate an image or an experience with an essential oil they are likely to be disappointed at the minds recollection of them because they are not positively unpleasant.
  • Ian Brealey Top notes on their own in a perfume blend are not very likeable. For example melissa, bergamot and basil, very citrussy but not very likeable. Ylang calms the whole thing down and then ginger creates a thoroughly likeable masculine fragrance.
  • Ian Brealey which is therapeutic too
  • Ian Brealey I found that by chance intuitively with a delegate in class yesterday I am not claiming to be a perfumer. definitely not!
  • Ian Brealey It seems to be the blend of the oils which creates the positively agreeable experience of a perfume. The descriptions listed on the other thread are more relaxing, stimulating, and in the case of grapefruit most/all would agree the aroma is refreshing.

    Ian Brealey Is this a case where 'not positively unpleasant' is not saying the same thing as 'pleasant'! The fragrance researchers seem to be placing them in ‘‘Happiness – Well-being – Pleasantly surprised” for the ‘‘Pleasant
    feeling” dimension.
    _ ‘‘Romantic – Desire – In love” for the ‘‘Sensuality” dimension.
    _ ‘‘Relaxed – Serene – Reassured” for the ‘‘Relaxation” dimension.
    _ ‘‘Nostalgic – Amusement – Mouthwatering” for the ‘‘Sensory
    pleasure” dimension.
    _ ‘‘Energetic – Invigorated – Clean” for the ‘‘Refreshment”
    dimension. However again they are looking at the oils in isolation rather than a perfumers 'accords' of two or more oils. In reality even shampoos tend to contain two or more oils to create an agreeable effect.

    Ian Brealey Have you done a blogpost on aromatherapy accords Robert? When you write that x blends well with y is that ever from an aesthetic viewpoint rather than a therapeutic viewpoint? I appreciate we are getting into the area of individual preference which can vary widely.

    The Complete Technology Book on Herbal perfumes

    Essential Oil Odour Profiling

    Professional Accords in perfumes 

    The professional accords are not much assistance where we are just looking at the aesthetic compatibility of 2 or more essential oils.


    There are many types of professional accords like Chypre, Fougere etc Here are some of them:

    Ambre accord
    Has beside ambernotes also vanilla, cinnamonlike,
    spicy, dry fruitlike aspects. Together with balsamic
    notes like: Benzoin, Tolu and Labdanum.

    Ambrein accord
    Bergamot, Vanilla or Vannilin, Coumarine and Civet
    makes the Ambrein accord, together with balsamic
    notes like Benzoin, Opopanax, Tolu, Labdanum. Mostly
    combined with wood and rose notes.
    Typical perfumes made of the ambrein accord are
    Shalimar, Must de Cartier and Obsession

    Chypre
    Chypre has a harmony between the freshness of bergamot and the
    intense fragrance of oak moss. Mostly combined with roses and
    jasmine. The base contains beside the oak moss also patchouli,
    cedar and labdanum. Chypre was the name of a perfume made by
    coty in 1917. It does not exist anymore but many chypre perfumes
    are inspired by it.
    An example of a Chypre formula:

    Bergamot 15
    Sandalwood 8
    Vetiver 6
    oakmoss 5
    Rose 6
    Jasmin 5
    Gamma Methyl Ionone 3
    Patchouli 5
    Musk ketone 3
    Clary sage 2
    Neroli 2

    Fougere
    Fougere is a type of perfume that has lavender,
    patchouli, oak moss and the fragrance of hay from
    coumarine, Tonka bean or Hay absolute. In French Fougere means fern.
    In 1882 Houbigant made Fougere Royal. The Fougeres
    are related to that perfume. Fougere based perfumes
    are mostly men perfumes.

    Mellis accord
    The Mellis accord has Benzyl salicylate,
    Eugenol combined with Patchouli, Hydroxycitronellal,
    spices, woodnotes and Coumarine together with balsamic notes.
    Typical Mellis perfumes are Youth Dew, Opium and Coco Chanel.

    Background

    Accord: It is equivalent to a chord in music. An accord in perfumery describes a balanced complex of 3 or 4 fragrance notes which loose their individual identity to create a completely new, unified odor impression. Each component material is in balance and harmony with each other so that no single component can be detected.
    • Top note is strongest when a fragrance is first applied
    • Middle note develops next and will last for a few hours
    • Base note lasts all day
    Perfumes
    Perfume (Extract): Most highly concentrated form of fragrance, containing a high percentage of perfume compounds (about 20-50%), the strongest and the longest lasting.
    Eau de Parfum: An alcoholic perfume solution containing a relatively high percentage of perfume compound (about 10-15%). Eau de Toilette: An alcohol/water based perfume solution containing a moderate percentage perfume compound (about 3-8%).
    Cologne (Women’s): A light form of specific fragrance with a relatively low concentration of perfume compound (about 3%) in an alcohol water base. The term is derived from Eau de Cologne, one of the original fragrance compositions.
    Compound: Term used in the industry for the concentrated perfume or flavor mixture before it is diluted or used in products.
    Cologne (Men’s): More concentrated than the women’s cologne (about 5-8%). It is similar to the strength of a women's Eau de Toilette. A men’s After Shave by comparison will be somewhat lighter (about 3-5%).
    Pheromones
    Chemicals produced by living organisms and are used to transmit messages to other member of the same species. Nature has provided them so that we can communicate rapidly and efficiently by means of scents. The secret to pheromones lies in their discreet strength and the way they affect our personal environment.
     Perfume Family
    Chypre: The basic chypre accord consists of a combination of fresh notes (ex: citrus) and a mossy-woody complex. The inspiration of 20th century chypre-type perfumes is ‘Chypre de Coty’, created by Francois Coty, launched in 1917. Citrus: Fragrance accords are reminiscent of fresh impressions coming from citrus peels, ex: Lemon, Bergamot, Orange, Grapefruit, Tangerine, Lime.
    Floral: Fragrance accords are reminiscent of flowers, such as the "first ladies of flowers": Jasmine, Rose, Tuberose and Ylang-Ylang. Floriental: It is a lighter variant of the typically heavy Oriental type of perfume, in which floral notes are accentuated. Fougère: It is a French word meaning ‘fern’. Fragrance accords result from a harmonious blend of fern-like notes blended with herbal notes such as Lavender. It was coined after Houbigant’s ‘Fougère Royale’ a century ago. One of the first modern fougère perfumes to become highly popular was the masculine fragrance ‘Brut’, launched by Fabergé in 1964.
    Fruity: It refers to sweet or sour edible fruit odors (excluding citrus), ex: apple, berries or melons.
    Oriental: Fragrance accords create corresponding associations by the interplay of balsamic, sweet and ambery aspects, ex: wood, benzoin, tolu, amber, and vanilla, often contrasted with fresh, citrus aspects. These fragrances tend to be more heavy and intense.
    Woody: It refers to the aroma of freshly cut, dry woods such as Cedarwood, Patchouli, Vetiver or Sandalwood.
     Perfume Tips
    • Coffee will help to clear the nostrils between scents.
    • Place your fragrance on pulse points, inside wrists, back of knees, and behind your ears.
    • When you spray perfume into your hair, every time you turn your head you will release fragrance.
    • When applying perfume you should never rub. Rubbing crushes the molecules of fragrance and ruin the scent
    • You should test the perfume on yourself, not your friend. Perfumes will smell different on different people.
    • Storage perfume at room temperature and not directly in sunlight.
    • When choosing a perfume for someone else, chose the lighter floral fragrances, they are acceptable for everyone. Heavier perfumes with oriental notes are more risky.
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